- Welcome to SleePyCode Forums.
Posted by SleePy
- Dec 29, 2008, 10:33 PMHere is an example of a topic that is failing to load in Firefox, Windows XP -
Enclosed is my attempt to document a step-by-step procedure for the famous KLR-650 doo swap. There are many site with Doo walk-thruís. I tried to detail the steps based on my experiences. This was my first doo swap.
I also installed the Electrosport 400 watt stator while I was swapping the Doo. That pitch is located here: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=829.0
Start with a little research, donít want any surprises!...Youíll have to excuse the crudity of my KLR-650 library. I really need to organize the topics better...hehehe
First Drain the oil, I use the center stand for this task
Low profile magnetic drain plug, new crush washer with every oil change.
Now jack-up the bike, Jack is a Sears Craftman brand with a few added brackets
remove side covers, notice re-located helmet lock with cable. Easy access and attach full face helmet.
remove seat. All my KLR fasteners have been upgraded to stainless ìcapî style fasteners (Allen Key) See: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=878.0
Remove tank bolts
Gas off, remove gas line
rag to catch gas drippings
side covers pry from tank
All the Items removed. Note: Some do not remove side covers, seat and tank. I did for 2x reasons. First I replaced my stator and regulator with the 400 watt aftermarket. I needed access to the wire bundles under the seat and tank. Second my garage has overhead lighting and I need as much light as possible to photograph the project. Don't want a tank shadow on the work area.
set up bike for task....Lots of light
Shop space/tables open...tools available
the doo kit from Eagle Mike...May need those gaskets. Have them handy
Area to open up!
Shifter lever off. Small mark to re-align teeth when re-installing
Take bolt all the way out...rachet wrench works best...wiggle lever off...
set aside with bolt in place as to not lose
one peg bolt off...loosen other...swivel aside as to clear outer case
Like this
sprocket cover next....3x fasteners
set aside
neutral wire....grab with fingers...wiggle straight back..no problem
wire off ....connector exposed
loosen outer cover.....NOT inner cover...triple check which bolt is attached to outer cover
loosen all about this much...your fasteners may not be cap heads
notice inner cover fastener still fully engaged
crack the case...try to maintain integrity of gasket...If tears....you will need a new one. Mine tore.
remove all fasteners here shown is 2x helper tabs to assist in prying with fingers
keep all parts on table with labels
pull outer case straight back...some oil will drip...have rags handy
tie off stator...donít let wires hold itís weight! Have wires/string/bungee available prior to removal
Attach here
here is is
Area of interest, need to remove most of this stuff.
It has really been explained if the gears need to be installed back exactly as removed, so I marked them for re-install. You donít need to do this. Remove these gears. Lower one first. Just pull it straight back. Then the upper one. Reach behind to take any washers or bushings with the gear. No issues all comes off well. Place on table.
Place that large Eagle Mike bent wrench over the 2x parallel notches on the shaft. Opposite end of wrench under foot peg Your going to un-trhread a 19mm large highly torqued bolt, rotate the bolt counter- clockwise. The whole bike will want to rotate. I placed a crate under the front tire to keep bike from falling. I used and recommend a 19mm car tire lug wrench. This will ensure you are only placing a moment on the bolt, not shear forces. Two co-linear forces offset by the by a distance is a couple. Every couple has itís moment! Hehehe
bolt un-threading. You can do this whole task alone. This was the most difficult step in the entire process. The bolt is torqued to 130 ft-lbs. It is really on there.
bolt off...whew!
next is the rotor and starter gear. The starter gear is behind this rotor. They are on the same shaft
need this Eagle Mike supplied bolt. It is really a rotor removal tool. You will use it to remove a press fit rotor. The rotor will not rotate and slide off a shaft.
lube it...as to minimize galling
thread it in
Place wrench over foot peg and rotate lug wrench clockwise
pull out rotor and starter gear. Straight out. Watch for woodruff key. A small crescnt shaped metal piece. Mine came out no problem
starter gear
this is where that keys goes
My Doo...loosen the balancer adjustment bolt. Rotate counter clockwise
the bolt is coming out
keep your finger here as you pull off your doo. Straight back
This is what all the fuss is about! Not broken.
The inner case is next. Need to get in here to replace that spring. Remove all outer case parameter fasteners
one internal fastener also right here! NOTE: it is shorter in length than the inner case attach fasteners...Edit comment from member pterzian
keep fasteners here
brake seal on case try to maintain gasket integrity. Mine broke. Dough! Good thing I ordered those extra gaskets!
Inner case coming off. Keep finger on the doo shaft while you remove the inner case
here is the stock spring. At lower section of the case. Not broken.
remove the spring
replace with the longer of the 2x Eagle Mike springs
new unsprung gap = .5 inches. Hope that is ok!
slide the spring end over stud like this with small tool
measure gaps between coils
gap = .025 inch. Hope that is ok!
Spring on...now reinstall all parts!
inspect inner case...remove all residual gasket sealant
little left is ok
new gasket
Very light coat of this stuff
re-attach inner cover. Make sure everything aligns
torque all fasteners to 15 in-lbs in cris-cross pattern, then torque all to 69 inch-lbs.
attach the doo and adjuster bolt. Do not tighten bolt yet
Attach starter sprocket
Slides right on
That slot on the shaft is for the woodruff key
place like this
in here. Clean all grease from the shaft
the rotor next...This part is tricky. Need to align rotor slot with key in shaft. BIG TIP HERE: take your left index finger and spin that big starter sprocket clockwise while pushing the stator on the shaft. This was the second most difficult step.
stator on....now to install that bolt that came with Eaglemike's kit
bolt on
torque to 85 foot-lbs Clock-wise...then back off totally...then torque to 130 ft-lbs. Use a ¬Ω torque wrench. Note: holder wrench on top of foot peg. Back end will want to come down.
install upper gear. Just slide it on
now lower gear....just slide it on mesh with starter teeth...
rotate starter sprocket clockwise to align teeth...Like what you did to attach the rotor
all internal parts re-installed. Torque the balancer bolt to 69-inch-lbs.
ready to reinstall case
finger thread bolts...note: a .25 inch gap exists between case and frame. Cannot close with hand pressure....carefully tighten fasteners...cris-cross pattern 1x turn at a time. It will slowly close up the gap.
toruque to 25 inch-lbs cris cross pattern...repeat with 68 in-lbs.
All buttoned up.
re-attach wire bundle clip and push wires back into slot with small tool
add oil, re-attach shifter, foot peg, neutral wire
all done.
Review and observations:
1. Bike started....
2. No leaks....
3. Have left side outer and inner cover gasket handy. I needed them.
4. Once installed I fired up the bike, it rattled a lot. I turned it off. Leaned the bike to the right at 25 degrees. It was propped on the garage door frame.† Removed the rubber balancer adjust cover. Rotated the balancer adjust bolt 1x full turn counter-clockwise. The rotate the bolt clockwise and torque the bolt to 69 inch-lbs. Note Units! Then the bike purred! It also seemed to induce less vibration at the higher RPM's.
5. Although no parts were failed, I'll have piece of mind.
Enclosed is my attempt to document a step-by-step procedure for the famous KLR-650 doo swap. There are many site with Doo walk-thruís. I tried to detail the steps based on my experiences. This was my first doo swap.
I also installed the Electrosport 400 watt stator while I was swapping the Doo. That pitch is located here: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=829.0
Start with a little research, donít want any surprises!...Youíll have to excuse the crudity of my KLR-650 library. I really need to organize the topics better...hehehe
First Drain the oil, I use the center stand for this task
Low profile magnetic drain plug, new crush washer with every oil change.
Now jack-up the bike, Jack is a Sears Craftman brand with a few added brackets
remove side covers, notice re-located helmet lock with cable. Easy access and attach full face helmet.
remove seat. All my KLR fasteners have been upgraded to stainless ìcapî style fasteners (Allen Key) See: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=878.0
Remove tank bolts
Gas off, remove gas line
rag to catch gas drippings
side covers pry from tank
All the Items removed. Note: Some do not remove side covers, seat and tank. I did for 2x reasons. First I replaced my stator and regulator with the 400 watt aftermarket. I needed access to the wire bundles under the seat and tank. Second my garage has overhead lighting and I need as much light as possible to photograph the project. Don't want a tank shadow on the work area.
set up bike for task....Lots of light
Shop space/tables open...tools available
the doo kit from Eagle Mike...May need those gaskets. Have them handy
Area to open up!
Shifter lever off. Small mark to re-align teeth when re-installing
Take bolt all the way out...rachet wrench works best...wiggle lever off...
set aside with bolt in place as to not lose
one peg bolt off...loosen other...swivel aside as to clear outer case
Like this
sprocket cover next....3x fasteners
set aside
neutral wire....grab with fingers...wiggle straight back..no problem
wire off ....connector exposed
loosen outer cover.....NOT inner cover...triple check which bolt is attached to outer cover
loosen all about this much...your fasteners may not be cap heads
notice inner cover fastener still fully engaged
crack the case...try to maintain integrity of gasket...If tears....you will need a new one. Mine tore.
remove all fasteners here shown is 2x helper tabs to assist in prying with fingers
keep all parts on table with labels
pull outer case straight back...some oil will drip...have rags handy
tie off stator...donít let wires hold itís weight! Have wires/string/bungee available prior to removal
Attach here
here is is
Area of interest, need to remove most of this stuff.
It has really been explained if the gears need to be installed back exactly as removed, so I marked them for re-install. You donít need to do this. Remove these gears. Lower one first. Just pull it straight back. Then the upper one. Reach behind to take any washers or bushings with the gear. No issues all comes off well. Place on table.
Place that large Eagle Mike bent wrench over the 2x parallel notches on the shaft. Opposite end of wrench under foot peg Your going to un-trhread a 19mm large highly torqued bolt, rotate the bolt counter- clockwise. The whole bike will want to rotate. I placed a crate under the front tire to keep bike from falling. I used and recommend a 19mm car tire lug wrench. This will ensure you are only placing a moment on the bolt, not shear forces. Two co-linear forces offset by the by a distance is a couple. Every couple has itís moment! Hehehe
bolt un-threading. You can do this whole task alone. This was the most difficult step in the entire process. The bolt is torqued to 130 ft-lbs. It is really on there.
bolt off...whew!
next is the rotor and starter gear. The starter gear is behind this rotor. They are on the same shaft
need this Eagle Mike supplied bolt. It is really a rotor removal tool. You will use it to remove a press fit rotor. The rotor will not rotate and slide off a shaft.
lube it...as to minimize galling
thread it in
Place wrench over foot peg and rotate lug wrench clockwise
pull out rotor and starter gear. Straight out. Watch for woodruff key. A small crescnt shaped metal piece. Mine came out no problem
starter gear
this is where that keys goes
My Doo...loosen the balancer adjustment bolt. Rotate counter clockwise
the bolt is coming out
keep your finger here as you pull off your doo. Straight back
This is what all the fuss is about! Not broken.
The inner case is next. Need to get in here to replace that spring. Remove all outer case parameter fasteners
one internal fastener also right here! NOTE: it is shorter in length than the inner case attach fasteners...Edit comment from member pterzian
keep fasteners here
brake seal on case try to maintain gasket integrity. Mine broke. Dough! Good thing I ordered those extra gaskets!
Inner case coming off. Keep finger on the doo shaft while you remove the inner case
here is the stock spring. At lower section of the case. Not broken.
remove the spring
replace with the longer of the 2x Eagle Mike springs
new unsprung gap = .5 inches. Hope that is ok!
slide the spring end over stud like this with small tool
measure gaps between coils
gap = .025 inch. Hope that is ok!
Spring on...now reinstall all parts!
inspect inner case...remove all residual gasket sealant
little left is ok
new gasket
Very light coat of this stuff
re-attach inner cover. Make sure everything aligns
torque all fasteners to 15 in-lbs in cris-cross pattern, then torque all to 69 inch-lbs.
attach the doo and adjuster bolt. Do not tighten bolt yet
Attach starter sprocket
Slides right on
That slot on the shaft is for the woodruff key
place like this
in here. Clean all grease from the shaft
the rotor next...This part is tricky. Need to align rotor slot with key in shaft. BIG TIP HERE: take your left index finger and spin that big starter sprocket clockwise while pushing the stator on the shaft. This was the second most difficult step.
stator on....now to install that bolt that came with Eaglemike's kit
bolt on
torque to 85 foot-lbs Clock-wise...then back off totally...then torque to 130 ft-lbs. Use a ¬Ω torque wrench. Note: holder wrench on top of foot peg. Back end will want to come down.
install upper gear. Just slide it on
now lower gear....just slide it on mesh with starter teeth...
rotate starter sprocket clockwise to align teeth...Like what you did to attach the rotor
all internal parts re-installed. Torque the balancer bolt to 69-inch-lbs.
ready to reinstall case
finger thread bolts...note: a .25 inch gap exists between case and frame. Cannot close with hand pressure....carefully tighten fasteners...cris-cross pattern 1x turn at a time. It will slowly close up the gap.
toruque to 25 inch-lbs cris cross pattern...repeat with 68 in-lbs.
All buttoned up.
re-attach wire bundle clip and push wires back into slot with small tool
add oil, re-attach shifter, foot peg, neutral wire
all done.
Review and observations:
1. Bike started....
2. No leaks....
3. Have left side outer and inner cover gasket handy. I needed them.
4. Once installed I fired up the bike, it rattled a lot. I turned it off. Leaned the bike to the right at 25 degrees. It was propped on the garage door frame.† Removed the rubber balancer adjust cover. Rotated the balancer adjust bolt 1x full turn counter-clockwise. The rotate the bolt clockwise and torque the bolt to 69 inch-lbs. Note Units! Then the bike purred! It also seemed to induce less vibration at the higher RPM's.
5. Although no parts were failed, I'll have piece of mind.
Posted by SleePy
- Dec 29, 2008, 10:32 PMHere is an example of a topic that is failing to load in Firefox, Windows XP -
Enclosed is my attempt to document a step-by-step procedure for the famous KLR-650 doo swap. There are many site with Doo walk-thruís. I tried to detail the steps based on my experiences. This was my first doo swap.
I also installed the Electrosport 400 watt stator while I was swapping the Doo. That pitch is located here: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=829.0
Start with a little research, donít want any surprises!...Youíll have to excuse the crudity of my KLR-650 library. I really need to organize the topics better...hehehe
First Drain the oil, I use the center stand for this task
Low profile magnetic drain plug, new crush washer with every oil change.
Now jack-up the bike, Jack is a Sears Craftman brand with a few added brackets
remove side covers, notice re-located helmet lock with cable. Easy access and attach full face helmet.
remove seat. All my KLR fasteners have been upgraded to stainless ìcapî style fasteners (Allen Key) See: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=878.0
Remove tank bolts
Gas off, remove gas line
rag to catch gas drippings
side covers pry from tank
All the Items removed. Note: Some do not remove side covers, seat and tank. I did for 2x reasons. First I replaced my stator and regulator with the 400 watt aftermarket. I needed access to the wire bundles under the seat and tank. Second my garage has overhead lighting and I need as much light as possible to photograph the project. Don't want a tank shadow on the work area.
set up bike for task....Lots of light
Shop space/tables open...tools available
the doo kit from Eagle Mike...May need those gaskets. Have them handy
Area to open up!
Shifter lever off. Small mark to re-align teeth when re-installing
Take bolt all the way out...rachet wrench works best...wiggle lever off...
set aside with bolt in place as to not lose
one peg bolt off...loosen other...swivel aside as to clear outer case
Like this
sprocket cover next....3x fasteners
set aside
neutral wire....grab with fingers...wiggle straight back..no problem
wire off ....connector exposed
loosen outer cover.....NOT inner cover...triple check which bolt is attached to outer cover
loosen all about this much...your fasteners may not be cap heads
notice inner cover fastener still fully engaged
crack the case...try to maintain integrity of gasket...If tears....you will need a new one. Mine tore.
remove all fasteners here shown is 2x helper tabs to assist in prying with fingers
keep all parts on table with labels
pull outer case straight back...some oil will drip...have rags handy
tie off stator...donít let wires hold itís weight! Have wires/string/bungee available prior to removal
Attach here
here is is
Area of interest, need to remove most of this stuff.
It has really been explained if the gears need to be installed back exactly as removed, so I marked them for re-install. You donít need to do this. Remove these gears. Lower one first. Just pull it straight back. Then the upper one. Reach behind to take any washers or bushings with the gear. No issues all comes off well. Place on table.
Place that large Eagle Mike bent wrench over the 2x parallel notches on the shaft. Opposite end of wrench under foot peg Your going to un-trhread a 19mm large highly torqued bolt, rotate the bolt counter- clockwise. The whole bike will want to rotate. I placed a crate under the front tire to keep bike from falling. I used and recommend a 19mm car tire lug wrench. This will ensure you are only placing a moment on the bolt, not shear forces. Two co-linear forces offset by the by a distance is a couple. Every couple has itís moment! Hehehe
bolt un-threading. You can do this whole task alone. This was the most difficult step in the entire process. The bolt is torqued to 130 ft-lbs. It is really on there.
bolt off...whew!
next is the rotor and starter gear. The starter gear is behind this rotor. They are on the same shaft
need this Eagle Mike supplied bolt. It is really a rotor removal tool. You will use it to remove a press fit rotor. The rotor will not rotate and slide off a shaft.
lube it...as to minimize galling
thread it in
Place wrench over foot peg and rotate lug wrench clockwise
pull out rotor and starter gear. Straight out. Watch for woodruff key. A small crescnt shaped metal piece. Mine came out no problem
starter gear
this is where that keys goes
My Doo...loosen the balancer adjustment bolt. Rotate counter clockwise
the bolt is coming out
keep your finger here as you pull off your doo. Straight back
This is what all the fuss is about! Not broken.
The inner case is next. Need to get in here to replace that spring. Remove all outer case parameter fasteners
one internal fastener also right here! NOTE: it is shorter in length than the inner case attach fasteners...Edit comment from member pterzian
keep fasteners here
brake seal on case try to maintain gasket integrity. Mine broke. Dough! Good thing I ordered those extra gaskets!
Inner case coming off. Keep finger on the doo shaft while you remove the inner case
here is the stock spring. At lower section of the case. Not broken.
remove the spring
replace with the longer of the 2x Eagle Mike springs
new unsprung gap = .5 inches. Hope that is ok!
slide the spring end over stud like this with small tool
measure gaps between coils
gap = .025 inch. Hope that is ok!
Spring on...now reinstall all parts!
inspect inner case...remove all residual gasket sealant
little left is ok
new gasket
Very light coat of this stuff
re-attach inner cover. Make sure everything aligns
torque all fasteners to 15 in-lbs in cris-cross pattern, then torque all to 69 inch-lbs.
attach the doo and adjuster bolt. Do not tighten bolt yet
Attach starter sprocket
Slides right on
That slot on the shaft is for the woodruff key
place like this
in here. Clean all grease from the shaft
the rotor next...This part is tricky. Need to align rotor slot with key in shaft. BIG TIP HERE: take your left index finger and spin that big starter sprocket clockwise while pushing the stator on the shaft. This was the second most difficult step.
stator on....now to install that bolt that came with Eaglemike's kit
bolt on
torque to 85 foot-lbs Clock-wise...then back off totally...then torque to 130 ft-lbs. Use a ¬Ω torque wrench. Note: holder wrench on top of foot peg. Back end will want to come down.
install upper gear. Just slide it on
now lower gear....just slide it on mesh with starter teeth...
rotate starter sprocket clockwise to align teeth...Like what you did to attach the rotor
all internal parts re-installed. Torque the balancer bolt to 69-inch-lbs.
ready to reinstall case
finger thread bolts...note: a .25 inch gap exists between case and frame. Cannot close with hand pressure....carefully tighten fasteners...cris-cross pattern 1x turn at a time. It will slowly close up the gap.
toruque to 25 inch-lbs cris cross pattern...repeat with 68 in-lbs.
All buttoned up.
re-attach wire bundle clip and push wires back into slot with small tool
add oil, re-attach shifter, foot peg, neutral wire
all done.
Review and observations:
1. Bike started....
2. No leaks....
3. Have left side outer and inner cover gasket handy. I needed them.
4. Once installed I fired up the bike, it rattled a lot. I turned it off. Leaned the bike to the right at 25 degrees. It was propped on the garage door frame.† Removed the rubber balancer adjust cover. Rotated the balancer adjust bolt 1x full turn counter-clockwise. The rotate the bolt clockwise and torque the bolt to 69 inch-lbs. Note Units! Then the bike purred! It also seemed to induce less vibration at the higher RPM's.
5. Although no parts were failed, I'll have piece of mind.
Enclosed is my attempt to document a step-by-step procedure for the famous KLR-650 doo swap. There are many site with Doo walk-thruís. I tried to detail the steps based on my experiences. This was my first doo swap.
I also installed the Electrosport 400 watt stator while I was swapping the Doo. That pitch is located here: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=829.0
Start with a little research, donít want any surprises!...Youíll have to excuse the crudity of my KLR-650 library. I really need to organize the topics better...hehehe
First Drain the oil, I use the center stand for this task
Low profile magnetic drain plug, new crush washer with every oil change.
Now jack-up the bike, Jack is a Sears Craftman brand with a few added brackets
remove side covers, notice re-located helmet lock with cable. Easy access and attach full face helmet.
remove seat. All my KLR fasteners have been upgraded to stainless ìcapî style fasteners (Allen Key) See: http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php?topic=878.0
Remove tank bolts
Gas off, remove gas line
rag to catch gas drippings
side covers pry from tank
All the Items removed. Note: Some do not remove side covers, seat and tank. I did for 2x reasons. First I replaced my stator and regulator with the 400 watt aftermarket. I needed access to the wire bundles under the seat and tank. Second my garage has overhead lighting and I need as much light as possible to photograph the project. Don't want a tank shadow on the work area.
set up bike for task....Lots of light
Shop space/tables open...tools available
the doo kit from Eagle Mike...May need those gaskets. Have them handy
Area to open up!
Shifter lever off. Small mark to re-align teeth when re-installing
Take bolt all the way out...rachet wrench works best...wiggle lever off...
set aside with bolt in place as to not lose
one peg bolt off...loosen other...swivel aside as to clear outer case
Like this
sprocket cover next....3x fasteners
set aside
neutral wire....grab with fingers...wiggle straight back..no problem
wire off ....connector exposed
loosen outer cover.....NOT inner cover...triple check which bolt is attached to outer cover
loosen all about this much...your fasteners may not be cap heads
notice inner cover fastener still fully engaged
crack the case...try to maintain integrity of gasket...If tears....you will need a new one. Mine tore.
remove all fasteners here shown is 2x helper tabs to assist in prying with fingers
keep all parts on table with labels
pull outer case straight back...some oil will drip...have rags handy
tie off stator...donít let wires hold itís weight! Have wires/string/bungee available prior to removal
Attach here
here is is
Area of interest, need to remove most of this stuff.
It has really been explained if the gears need to be installed back exactly as removed, so I marked them for re-install. You donít need to do this. Remove these gears. Lower one first. Just pull it straight back. Then the upper one. Reach behind to take any washers or bushings with the gear. No issues all comes off well. Place on table.
Place that large Eagle Mike bent wrench over the 2x parallel notches on the shaft. Opposite end of wrench under foot peg Your going to un-trhread a 19mm large highly torqued bolt, rotate the bolt counter- clockwise. The whole bike will want to rotate. I placed a crate under the front tire to keep bike from falling. I used and recommend a 19mm car tire lug wrench. This will ensure you are only placing a moment on the bolt, not shear forces. Two co-linear forces offset by the by a distance is a couple. Every couple has itís moment! Hehehe
bolt un-threading. You can do this whole task alone. This was the most difficult step in the entire process. The bolt is torqued to 130 ft-lbs. It is really on there.
bolt off...whew!
next is the rotor and starter gear. The starter gear is behind this rotor. They are on the same shaft
need this Eagle Mike supplied bolt. It is really a rotor removal tool. You will use it to remove a press fit rotor. The rotor will not rotate and slide off a shaft.
lube it...as to minimize galling
thread it in
Place wrench over foot peg and rotate lug wrench clockwise
pull out rotor and starter gear. Straight out. Watch for woodruff key. A small crescnt shaped metal piece. Mine came out no problem
starter gear
this is where that keys goes
My Doo...loosen the balancer adjustment bolt. Rotate counter clockwise
the bolt is coming out
keep your finger here as you pull off your doo. Straight back
This is what all the fuss is about! Not broken.
The inner case is next. Need to get in here to replace that spring. Remove all outer case parameter fasteners
one internal fastener also right here! NOTE: it is shorter in length than the inner case attach fasteners...Edit comment from member pterzian
keep fasteners here
brake seal on case try to maintain gasket integrity. Mine broke. Dough! Good thing I ordered those extra gaskets!
Inner case coming off. Keep finger on the doo shaft while you remove the inner case
here is the stock spring. At lower section of the case. Not broken.
remove the spring
replace with the longer of the 2x Eagle Mike springs
new unsprung gap = .5 inches. Hope that is ok!
slide the spring end over stud like this with small tool
measure gaps between coils
gap = .025 inch. Hope that is ok!
Spring on...now reinstall all parts!
inspect inner case...remove all residual gasket sealant
little left is ok
new gasket
Very light coat of this stuff
re-attach inner cover. Make sure everything aligns
torque all fasteners to 15 in-lbs in cris-cross pattern, then torque all to 69 inch-lbs.
attach the doo and adjuster bolt. Do not tighten bolt yet
Attach starter sprocket
Slides right on
That slot on the shaft is for the woodruff key
place like this
in here. Clean all grease from the shaft
the rotor next...This part is tricky. Need to align rotor slot with key in shaft. BIG TIP HERE: take your left index finger and spin that big starter sprocket clockwise while pushing the stator on the shaft. This was the second most difficult step.
stator on....now to install that bolt that came with Eaglemike's kit
bolt on
torque to 85 foot-lbs Clock-wise...then back off totally...then torque to 130 ft-lbs. Use a ¬Ω torque wrench. Note: holder wrench on top of foot peg. Back end will want to come down.
install upper gear. Just slide it on
now lower gear....just slide it on mesh with starter teeth...
rotate starter sprocket clockwise to align teeth...Like what you did to attach the rotor
all internal parts re-installed. Torque the balancer bolt to 69-inch-lbs.
ready to reinstall case
finger thread bolts...note: a .25 inch gap exists between case and frame. Cannot close with hand pressure....carefully tighten fasteners...cris-cross pattern 1x turn at a time. It will slowly close up the gap.
toruque to 25 inch-lbs cris cross pattern...repeat with 68 in-lbs.
All buttoned up.
re-attach wire bundle clip and push wires back into slot with small tool
add oil, re-attach shifter, foot peg, neutral wire
all done.
Review and observations:
1. Bike started....
2. No leaks....
3. Have left side outer and inner cover gasket handy. I needed them.
4. Once installed I fired up the bike, it rattled a lot. I turned it off. Leaned the bike to the right at 25 degrees. It was propped on the garage door frame.† Removed the rubber balancer adjust cover. Rotated the balancer adjust bolt 1x full turn counter-clockwise. The rotate the bolt clockwise and torque the bolt to 69 inch-lbs. Note Units! Then the bike purred! It also seemed to induce less vibration at the higher RPM's.
5. Although no parts were failed, I'll have piece of mind.
Posted by SleePy
- Dec 04, 2008, 11:20 PMPosted by SleePy
- Nov 17, 2008, 08:28 PM1
Posted by SleePy
- Oct 14, 2008, 09:19 PMtesting posting
Posted by SleePy
- Oct 14, 2008, 09:19 PMtesting posting
Posted by SleePy
- Oct 14, 2008, 09:17 PMtesting posting
Posted by SleePy
- Oct 14, 2008, 06:14 PMsfds
hehehe
hehehe
Posted by SleePy
- Oct 14, 2008, 06:13 PMsfds
hehehe
hehehe